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Η εικόνα μου για το κρητικό κρασί: Ένα μωσαϊκό από μπουκάλια

Η οινική κουλτούρα της Κρήτης εκτείνεται πάνω από 4.000 χρόνια στο παρελθόν και βιώνει αυτή τη στιγμή μια συναρπαστική αναγέννηση. Στο κείμενο που ακολουθεί, θα ήθελα να δώσω αδρά μια επισκόπηση ορισμένων εξελίξεων, όπως τις αντιλαμβάνομαι. Θα το κάνω αναφερόμενος σε κρασιά που είχα πρόσφατα στο ποτήρι μου — κρασιά τα οποία, συνολικά, σχηματίζουν μια εικόνα του πού βρίσκεται ο κρητικός οίνος για μένα αυτή τη στιγμή. Σημειωτέον, δεν πρόκειται για συστηματική επισκόπηση — μοιάζ

Griechische Weine

30 Μαρδιαβάστηκε 20 λεπτά

@domaineskouras Peplo Rosé.

Around €15 retail in Greece. Around €17 in Germany.

George and @skourasdim experimented for three years before releasing the first Peplo in 2017. Their stated goal: "We wanted to make a serious rosé wine. Something similar to our big reds or whites." Rosé specialist Elizabeth Gabay MW tasted the debut vintage and wrote: "I would say they have succeeded."

Here's what "serious" means in practice. Three grapes in equal parts, each from a different corner of the Peloponnese, each on different soil, at different altitude, aged in a different vessel:
- Agiorgitiko. Nemea, 850m, clay. Acacia barrels.

- Syrah. Argolida, 600m, rocky soil. Stainless steel, on its lees.

-Mavrofilero. Mantinia, 650m, sand. Egg-shaped amphoras, four months on its skins, wrapped in fabric – the peplos that gives the wine its name.

Three vineyards. Three vinification paths. Three ageing vessels. Then blended. At most wineries, this level of complexity is reserved for the flagship red. Here it's the rosé. For fifteen euros.

In the glass: pale coral, red-gold hints. Strawberry, white flowers, grapefruit, something mineral. The palate has real structure – salty, precise, a finish that keeps going. Not a patio sipper that vanishes. A rosé you remember.

It's an interesting case of critics either getting or not getting the idea. Jancis Robinson gave this wine 17/20 across three vintages (2017, 2021, 2024). Parker, by contrast, sits around 89. Wine Enthusiast called it "easy to drink but conceptually fascinating" and noted it could age three years or more. That sounds like: theoretically nice, but in practice just a decent wine. It's not. It's a great wine. Still, I see what they mean. Something still needs to click. For all the effort to fully pay off. For this to become iconic.

I tasted the 2024 last autumn. 92 points. I think it will improve, so I'm adding a plus. Try the 2024 this year. And don't be surprised if one of the coming vintages goes through the roof.

I've been ordering this wine for years without really loving it. Skouras Megas Oenos – Greece's most famous red. George Skouras studied in Dijon, came home, blended Agiorgitiko with Cabernet, and changed the conversation. Everyone knows the story. But I always felt the price was paying for that story more than for the glass.

So we set up a blind tasting. Six wines, all 2019, all €20–40. Five Bordeaux chosen for their value: Meyney, Carmenère, Clos Manou, Belgrave, Doyac. Tasters had the list but didn't know which glass was which.

The four Cabernet-heavy Bordeaux grouped together instantly. Meyney smelled of raspberry and tasted of marzipan – round, agreeable, but where's the tension? 91. Carmenère poured nearly purple. Leather, smoke, something feral – someone asked if a Syrah had snuck in. It developed interesting fruit sweetness over time but never quite settled. 92. Clos Manou was mute on the nose, then loaded the palate with structure and jammy blackberry. The finish kept trying to take off but stayed stuck in earth. 92+, come back in 2027. Belgrave brought speculoos spice, plum, and a dusty delicate tannin. Long finish. 93+.

Then the two wines where Cabernet wasn't in charge. Doyac – 85% Merlot on limestone – dark gingerbread nose, blackberry as jelly – far more elegant than the Clos Manou – then herbs, iodine, black tea in the finish. A complete wine already. 94. And Megas Oenos – 80% Agiorgitiko, 20% Cabernet. It looked pale and thin next to the near-black Bordeaux. The nose was pure vanilla – heaviest oak of the night. But the palate told a different story: delicate, varied berries, then caramel and toast instead of just vanilla, and a finish where sweetness, bitterness and peppery heat circled each other. It could have failed. It didn't. 94.

Yes, the Greek wine blog gave the top score to the Greek wine. I know how that looks. Can't change what happened in the glass.

Full notes (in German, English, and Greek!) on the blog – link in bio.

@domaineskouras @chateaumeyney @chateaucarmenere @dourthe.bordeaux @chateau_doyac @lobenbergs

Today we opened two special Greek Cabernet Sauvignons from the 2008 vintage — both single-varietal wines.

The first was Trilogia 2008 from the west coast of the Peloponnese in southern Greece, made by Christos Kokkalis. The second came from Northern Greece, from Pangeon: Etos 2008 by @ktimabibliachora — the very estate that later took over and continued the Trilogia story (@ktimadioipsi ).

Both bottles are very hard to find today, so I was genuinely happy to taste them side by side. I’ve had many vintages of Trilogia over the years. Etos, by contrast, is produced only in special vintages (from diggerent grapesand released only after long ageing. Biblia Chora also makes an excellent “regular” Cabernet Sauvignon under the Ovilos Red label.

Trilogia 2008 is one of the best Trilogia vintages I’ve had. It is clearly better than 2009, and while 2012 has improved a lot in recent years, I don’t think it reaches this level. Right now, 2008 feels fully at its peak. I still don’t think it surpasses the 2006, which remains the best Trilogia I’ve personally tasted at 98 points (I’ve never had the chance to try the truly mythical 1990s vintages). Even with a pessimistic estimate, Trilogia 2008 still scores 96 points for me.

On the nose, it is quintessential old-school Kokkalis: eucalyptus, juniper berry, overripe raspberry and blackberry, and cedarwood. On the palate, the tannins are mellowed and pliant, with a very long finish. It should continue to evolve beautifully over the next decade and beyond.

Etos 2008, by contrast, surprises with real freshness on the nose and textbook blackcurrant. On the palate it shows more smokiness, more acidity, and still very firm tannins. That acidity does a remarkable job of masking the alcohol difference (15% vs. 14%). It is already giving plenty of pleasure; if there is a weakness at the moment, it is a slightly short finish.

I would rate Etos 2008 at 94+ points right now, and I can imagine it one day outperforming Trilogia in international blind tastings. But for lovers of the old Kokkalis wines — for those who want to remember that legend in the glass — a wine like Trilogia 2008 is simply very hard to beat.

PART 7: MERLOT WINES OF 2021

THE EMPEROR LIMITED EDITION 2021 – Papargyriou Winery @papargyriouwinery

Greece's New Merlot King?

Papargyriou Winery is based in Korinthia, northeastern Peloponnese. @ypapargyriou72 is known for his powerful, concentrated reds. The Emperor is their new flagship wine: a limited-edition Merlot made only in exceptional vintages. 2021 is the first. 2023 will be released toward the end of 2026.

The Wine:
🍇 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc
🍷 15% alcohol
📍 PGI Korinthia

Tasting Notes:
Very fine – but not overripe – raspberry on the nose, a touch of blackberry, plus subtle seagrass that adds freshness without heavy iodine. Reminds me of Pomerol – yet nothing in Pomerol feels this electrifying. On the palate, in aroma and tannin, anything but delicate. A real monster! Incredible fruit sweetness on entry, but then the impression is shaped by an astonishingly refreshing acidity – remarkable at 15% alcohol. With lots of oxygen, the wine shows a cooler character and hints at its future development. I can't wait to see how it will look in five years. Unfortunately, I've already drunk far too many bottles – hard to resist. But please: hold back and give it time. If you're at all interested in Greek wine, you should try this at least once. It's crazy to me that of this very limited production (only 2,170 bottles), some are still available in Germany from @wineandnature – for only €59.99, which is a steal for such an icon wine.

Rating: up from 95+ points in 2024 to 96+ points in 2025 – with plenty of room to grow. Until now, the 2018 Merlot from @lacules_estate is the finest Greek Merlot I have ever tasted (I gave it 96 points, the same rating the 2021 now also got from me, but I think most wine enthusiasts might prefer the 2018). Generally, Lacules' Merlot has darker, spicier notes. The Emperor is very different – it doesn't impress you with its seriousness but with its restrained power. It's amazing that the Peloponnese now has two such different but equally excellent Merlot wines to offer.

PART 6: MERLOT WINES OF 2021

**DAME ROUGE III 2021 – Jima Winery** @jima.winery

**The Artisan from Arta**

Jima Winery is a family operation founded by oenologist Panagiotis Jimas @panosjimas and his wife Kristy Karagiannidou. Panagiotis holds a WSET Diploma and applies that knowledge to wines of unusual precision.

The winery sits in Kalomodia, Arta, just a few kilometers from the Ambracian Gulf. The soil is clay-rich with marine fossil deposits – the kind of terroir that produces structured, mineral reds.

**The Wine:**
🍇 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
🍷 14.5% alcohol
📍 Arta, Northwestern Greece
🍇 Part of the Merlot grapes shade-dried after harvest (appassimento-style)
🪵 12 months in new French oak, bottled unfiltered

**Tasting Notes:**
A striking amount of leather on the nose, layered with ripe cherries and plums. On the palate: very fine tannins that lend elegance and take away any brute force. Lots of olive paste in the flavor, long finish. Unique in Greece – and will find fans among those who want a more delicate Merlot at 14.5%.

93+ points. Probably would show even better with more air. If you have one of the couple of hundred bottles, give it time – and don't open it too early. I had purchased the Dame Rouge IV Day 26 2023 from @wineandnature and opened it last summer. That was definitely too early. (The same applies to the fantastic Odyssey – the 85:15 Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend I've regularly reviewed here – as well as the monovarietal Cabernet Franc, both from 2023. They were still so young it felt like a barrel tasting, so I won't rate them here.)

#GreekWine #JimaWinery #Merlot #Arta #winetasting🍷

PART 4: MERLOTS OF 2021

Merlot Alargino 2021 – Ktima Hatzimichalis @domainehatzimichalis

Pioneer of Greek Merlot
Domaine Hatzimichalis is one of Greece's most important estates. Founded by Dimitris Hatzimichalis in 1973 in Atalanti Valley (Central Greece), the winery was among the first to plant international varieties – starting with Cabernet Sauvignon – alongside indigenous Greek grapes.

The Merlot Alargino comes from the vineyard called "Alargino" – meaning "the furthest away" – at 320–350m elevation. No irrigation, low yields (3,500 kg/ha). The microclimate benefits from cool breezes flowing between Mount Parnassus and the Euboean Gulf.

Hatzimichalis was the first Greek winery to bottle Merlot as a single varietal, with the first vintage in 1989. I have previously (in 2023 and, the oldest vintage, in 2025) tasted the following vintages:

1992: The first Greek wine ever on the IWC Top 100 list, according to @leochatz (cf. my tasting note on this vintage below). Dense raspberry woven into mushroom and earth. Softened tannins but still noticeable grip. Despite only 12% alcohol: fresh, juicy, long. One of the most pleasing wines of that era I've tasted – should hold until 2030. 93 pts.
2004: Leather, then licorice, flint, graphite, blackberry. Great acidity. At its peak. 95 pts!
2011: Surprising. Initially mushrooms and underbrush, then remarkable improvement over days – black olive aromas, more complex than 2020. 94 pts.
2020: Bright color, reminds of hot-year Pomerol. Cherries, marzipan, strong yet refined tannins, outstanding finish. 93 pts, likely to improve.

Now - the 2021 vintage:
🍇 100% Merlot
🍷 14.5% alcohol
📍 PGI Atalanti Valley
🪵 12 months in new French oak barriques, 12 months bottle aging

Tasting Notes:
Quite expressive on the nose – lots of cherry jam. On the palate: sea buckthorn and marzipan, good length. Right at the finish, a subtle plum note sneaks in behind the sea buckthorn. 93+ points, like the 2020 vintage. Both will one day reach 95 points – but interestingly the 2021 already showed better oak integration (after roughly the same time after harvest).

#GreekWine #Hatzimichalis #Merlot #AtalantiValley #WineTasting

PART 3: Merlot of 2021

GALATRONA 2021 – Petrolo @petrolo_winery
Tuscany's Answer to Pomerol

Petrolo is a small family estate in the Val d'Arno di Sopra DOC, located just outside the Chianti Classico zone near Montevarchi. The Bazzocchi family acquired the property in the 1940s; today it's run by Luca Sanjust, third generation of the Bazzocchi-Sanjust family, who took over in 1993 after a career as an artist in Rome.
Galatrona, first released in 1994, is their flagship: 100% Merlot from a single vineyard planted between the late 1980s and mid-1990s. The soil – clay with shale, marl and sandstones at 300m elevation – retains the moisture Merlot needs in hot Tuscan summers. Critics regularly mention Galatrona alongside Masseto, Messorio, L'Apparita, and Redigaffi as Italy's finest Merlots.

The Wine:
🍇 100% Merlot
🍷 14% alcohol
📍 Val d'Arno di Sopra DOC
💰 Around €100

Tasting Notes:
Already visually a different league – incredibly dense in the glass. On the palate: absolutely mouthfilling. Finest nougat, delicate juniper, beautifully integrated oak. One of the world's best single-varietal Merlots – and still very fairly priced.
97 points.

Update: The Merlot tasting took place a few months ago. After Christmas, I opened another bottle – alongside Saffredi 2022 (). Galatrona did great, especially in the beginning. So much fruit, so much power. Mouth-coating fullness and a wonderful bloody aftertaste. Also: astonishingly much tannin. I had given it slightly less air than the Saffredi, which made Galatrona appear more youthful and powerful at first. With more air and rising temperature, Saffredi showed its strengths and overtook Galatrona (98+ for Saffredi). Galatrona confirmed at 97 points – but with a LOT of potential. I wouldn't be surprised if it reached 99 points one day.

So: After a modest benchmark from Pomerol, here's a real powerhouse to be reckoned with, to put it mildly. Will the Greek wines from @domainehatzimichalis, @lacules_estate, @jima.winery, and @papargyriouwinery simply be eclipsed? They won't surpass this – but can they somehow keep up? Stay tuned to find out...

#Galatrona #Petrolo #Merlot #Tuscany #Saffredi

PART 2: Merlot of 2021

CHÂTEAU LA CROIX 2021 – Pomerol

The Bordeaux Benchmark

Château La Croix is a 10-hectare estate in Catusseau, right next to Château Beauregard. The vineyard sits on sandy-gravel terraces with iron-rich soil – a terroir that was once dismissed in Pomerol but now produces wines of notable elegance. The Janoueix family has owned La Croix for over 150 years.

The Wine:
🍇 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
🍷 13.5% alcohol
📍 Pomerol AOC

Tasting Notes:
Dense on the nose, dense on entry. Loads of dark berries – especially sloe – with sandalwood undertones. Then, with air, the wine opens up: juicy, fruity, refreshing. A lovely, classic Pomerol.

My Score: 92 points.
A note on some other ratings: @lobenbergs gives 97-98+. @weinwisser6498 scores 95-96. I find these too generous. It's charming and drinkable, but 2021 was difficult for Bordeaux Merlot – and the wine reflects that. Lighter and more delicate than La Croix in great years. A solid benchmark, not a revelation, in my opinion. Now let's see over the coming days how the other wines, introduced yesterday, perform in comparison....

2021 Merlot: How Does Greece Compare? 🍷🇬🇷

2021 was brutal for Merlot in Bordeaux. A devastating late April frost wiped out up to 90% of yields in some areas. What followed wasn't better: a wet summer created ideal conditions for mildew and brought diluted grapes into many cellars. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon ripened more evenly and saved many cuvées. For Merlot, results were often inconsistent – light, sometimes hollow wines.

In Greece, 2021 told a different story. The summer was hot and dry, with no disease pressure. Grapes came in healthy, with excellent phenolic ripeness and deep color extraction. Yields were down 10–15% due to heat stress, but smaller berries delivered intensity and concentration.

I wanted to put this to the test. How would Greek Merlots from 2021 stand up against international benchmarks? The tasting included six wines:

🍷 Château La Croix 2021 – Pomerol (90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc)

🍷 Galatrona 2021 – @petrolo_winery (100% Merlot, Tuscany's benchmark)

🍷 Merlot Alargino 2021 – @domainehatzimichalis (100% Merlot, Atalanti Valley) - a wine I've had in several vintages and that always convinced me

🍷 Lacules Estate Merlot 2021 – @lacules_estate (100% Merlot, Messinia) - the 2018 has been the best Greek Merlot I've tasted so far

🍷 Dame Rouge III 2021 – @jima.winery (90% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc, partial appassimento)

🍷 The Emperor 2021 – @papargyriouwinery (95% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc, 15% alcohol) - rated 95+ points by us in 2023

Over the next couple of days, I'll share my notes on each wine.
#GreekWine #Merlot #Pomerol

Tuscany for the best steak of the year. Why not Greece?

I had great wines in stock. And great things have been happening in Greece over the last five years or so. But it’s often about individual achievements. Sometimes, Italy simply earns my respect.

Not Amarone. Not Barolo.
But having the guts to show France how it’s done for around €100.

Two wines.
100% Merlot from @petrolowinery (Galatrona!) and a Bordeaux blend with a slight advantage for Cabernet Sauvignon from @fattorialepupille__official (Saffredi!).

I had the former earlier this year, alongside some of the best Greek Merlots of the year (@lacules_estate, @domainehatzimichalis, @jima.winery). You might have read about that tasting here. The Greek wines did really well. But Galatrona 2021 stole my heart.

I had it again today with the best steak in the world (prepared by my mother-in-law — and yes, I really mean it). For me, almost the perfect wine.

Buuuut … then came Saffredi.

I had double-decanted both wines — the blend three hours in advance, the “mellow” Merlot 1.5 hours before the meat was served. A mistake? Perhaps.

I served the Galatrona first. So much fruit. So much power. So much tannin, too. Mouth-coating fullness, wonderful bloody aftertaste.

Still.

Saffredi was just there. Unwavering. Asking: Why didn’t you trust me?
I should have.

Having had the @domainedechevalier 2016 just two days ago (with almost exactly the same grape ratio), I somehow thought the blend needed more air. Never doubt a Super Tuscan!

What a wine.
Galatrona is FANTASTIC. 97++ points. Might reach 99.

But Saffredi is 98+.

To get a wine from Bordeaux with this prospect, you’d have to pay twice as much.

#bordeauxwine with duck? Sure. But is 2016 still too young? I didn't want to take a risk with Médoc and went to Graves. Still, I was a bit nervous when deciding to open this @domainedechevalier bottle. To be honest, yes, the youth is still quite apparent on the palate. More complexity will develop there. But it is not closed anymore. And on the nose it is just perfect. What a wonderful wine. 96+ points (and others at the table were more generous, insisted in 98).

Last week I had a bit of fun: I put @estates_costa_lazaridi “Cava Amethystos” on the table blind - 2001 vs 2020 -and watched everyone try to place them.

Nobody would have guessed that the 2001 was 19 years older. It has held up beautifully and tasted at least a decade younger: dried black cherry and cassis, cedar and cigar box, a hint of leather/forest floor, and those silky, fully resolved tannins that only come with real bottle time - but with a fresh spine still very much intact.

Now for the cheeky part. Back in 2006, WINE ENTHUSIAST gave the 2001 85 points, talked about “barnyard” aromas, and basically said “drink up.” None of that showed up in my glass - and the “drink up” call feels plainly wrong. If this bottle is any indication, it can cruise for another 10–20 years in great shape. Definitely still deserves 94 points.

And that’s the broader problem with some older international ratings of Greek wines: years later, the real-life “comparison set” often isn’t even on the market anymore, so sweeping judgments become surprisingly hard to test.

The 2020 is a different chapter entirely. Sometime in the late 2000s the estate pivoted away from Cabernet Sauvignon and committed to Cabernet Franc for Cava - a deliberate stylistic shift (and, yes, part of that “international polish” era of Greek fine wine). In the glass it makes sense: violet and blackcurrant, minty lift, graphite, new-oak framing, firm structure and a long, cool finish - powerful, but not heavy. Really salty aftertaste. 94+ points.

Cabernet Franc is, for me, the unsung hero of international varieties in Greece. When it’s done seriously - here, and also in wines like @domainehatzimichalis “Opous ib’” - it delivers that rare mix of perfume, freshness, and authority. I’ll admit: a small part of me is nostalgic for the old, single-minded Cabernet Sauvignon Cava (it may have been one of the most ageworthy Greek “Cab” bottlings). But after tasting these side by side, I’m also convinced the Cabernet Franc bet is the right one - Greece can be brilliant with it.

#greekwine #amethystos #costalazaridi #cabernetfranc #cabernetsauvignon

The 2017 Assyrtiko “Fi” from @domaine.economou comes from old, organically farmed vines in the high-altitude vineyards of Ziros, Katsidoni and Etia in eastern Crete. Fermentation is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts, and, true to the estate’s minimalist philosophy, there’s no fining or filtration. The wine is matured in large, neutral oak barrels with a deliberately oxidative approach.

If you're familiar with Economou’s regular Assyrtiko, the oxidative style here won't come as a surprise. Still, the nose offers something quite different. None of the usual dried fruits lifted by quince. Instead, it’s a freakshow for lovers of petrol aromas, something you’d typically expect only from aged Riesling. Those who aren’t into that will need to let it breathe. Then, more honey emerges. On the palate, you’ll find beeswax, apricot and a range of herbs. But what really sets the wine apart is its elegant, almost austere structure. The finish is fine, yet long. Personally, I’ve never been a fan of the saline blockbusters from Santorini. If you want an Assyrtiko that asks for your attention, this is a fantastic choice. And at €74.99 (via @winenadnature), it is fairly priced. Still, I prefer Assyrtiko with a bit more fruit ... fresh or dried. 93+ points.

The 2024 vintage of @papargyriouwinery 's Cuvée Hélène Goustolidi made it onto the “50 Great Greek Wines” (@yianniskarakasismw ) list this year- so I finally had to give it a try (I got the 2023).

This single-variety white wine is made from 100 % rare Goustolidi grapes grown on about 1,500 ungrafted vines at 700 m elevation near Sofiana in Corinthia. The grapes are hand-picked in early September, spontaneously fermented with native yeasts in 500 L French oak barrels, then aged on the fine lees for three months. With minimal sulfur additions and a gentle oak influence, the wine gains subtle wood complexity while remaining fresh and pure.

On the nose: lime blossom meets a spicy mineral edge. On the palate: a strikingly vivid acidity that fills the mouth without overpowering the fruit. Quite elegant. But not my favorite white wine from the winery, lacks a little bit of character compared to the others in my opinion. In any case, the wine needs plenty of oxygen and time to open up, revealing mint and lime notes. The finish is long - you’d swear you’d just emptied a Caipirinha.

A beautiful addition to the summer white-wine lineup of greek varieties, especially given its clear aging potential. I’m at 90 points today, and I’d be surprised if it doesn’t hit 92+ after 2–3 more years in bottle.

Available from wineandnature in Germany.

Le Roi Des Montagnes Assyrtiko from @papargyriouwinery is a special wine, one that is different from all other Assyrtikos you'll find. From vineyards ar 850m - and still it has 14,5% alc. That already teils you it's late harvest. And it's barrel aged. But make no mistake, this is no Nykteri, as you might know it from Santorini. It has so much body ... if you drink it from black glasses, you might think it's a red wine. Even though it does have aromas of peach and pear. But there are also darker aromas of berries and nuts. And on the palate too, there is so much grip ... the tannins are firm, there is a lot of really balanced sweetness. Just a couple of days of skin contact. So this is great even for all people who despise full-fledged orange wines. The 2022 vintahe is at 93+ points at the moment. It is fully enjoyable already but it also has a alot of potential for the coming years. In Germany, you can get it from wineandnature .

I am a big fan of this label from @domainehatzimichalis , which is one of the few Greek Merlots that really leans into a dense character with lots of red fruit.

Finding this bottle online and finally opening it was incredibly special for me. The first bottling of this wine was in 1989, only a couple of years after the label was introduced, and back then it didn’t yet mention the vineyard, since single-vineyard bottlings weren’t a thing in Greece at the time. As @leochatz told me, it’s an important wine for him— it was the first Greek wine ever included on the IWC list of the 100 best wines of the world.

What struck me immediately on the nose was how much it reminded me of the 2004 vintage: the same intensely dense raspberry aromas woven into tertiary notes of mushroom and earth. On the palate, the tannins have softened significantly yet still retain a noticeable grip—you can definitely feel them on the tongue. Despite its 12% alcohol, the wine isn’t thin or lacking in structure. A lively, mouthwatering acidity keeps it fresh and, even at this age, extremely juicy.

On the palate, the wine is dominated by a very pristine varietal expression: typical black-olive aromas woven with really tasty nougat. The aftertaste is quite long.

It’s not the most complex wine of that age that I’ve had, but it’s no exaggeration to say it’s one of the most pleasing wines of that period I’ve tasted. But I managed to keep a bit for the next day ... and it was still lovely. So, I think it might remain at this quality until around 2030 if stored properly. I would rate it at 93 points at the moment.

That’s impressive in itself, but even more so when you consider that early vintages of this wine received scores of just 88 or 89 points from international critics. BS! Show me any 88-point wine of that age that still drinks well and has even developed so beautifully!

Indeed, that’s the main lesson for me from tasting this wine. Look at the cork: it’s from a time when Greek viticulture wasn’t yet taken seriously on an international level, but the winemakers already knew they were producing a fantastic product—and they trusted it to endure. How right they were—what a vindication!

Miss De Bina 2021 taught me that Debina can dance like silk: whisper-fine, quietly elegant.
But @jima.winery didn’t stand still. In 2022 the estate retired Miss De Bina and rolled out Super Girl—same grape, but a rush of freshness.
Fast-forward to the wines in my glass today:

🦸‍♀️ Super Girl “Day 29” 2024

Late-August hand-picking, spontaneous ferment split between stainless and amphora; five months on the fine lees (12.6 % vol • RS 1.1 g/L • TA 6.1 g/L).
Nose Exotic blossom, grapefruit zest, green apple.
Palate Laser-bright acidity, salty minerality, a thread of fresh herbs; the finish is crystalline and refreshing.
91 pts – best 2024-26.

🌞 Plein Soleil “Day 22” 2023

Debina’s other pole. 50 % skin-fermented in amphora; eight-month élevage: 30 % neutral barrique, 20 % stainless; all lots kept on lees with gentle bâtonnage (12.0 % vol • RS 1.8 g/L • TA 7.2 g/L).
Nose Maritime breeze, crystalline quince, citrus, green apple.
Palate Brisk acidity, saline depth, high extract; vanilla is still a touch forward, yet the wine is thrillingly textured.
92 + pts today – 93/94 likely as the parts knit (drink now-2033).

Two extremes—⚡ freshness vs. 🏺 skin-contact power—both excellent expressions of this underrated variety ... and yet I must admit that I miss the effortless poise of Miss De Bina 2021. Elegance, it seems to me, remains the benchmark...

In Germany, you can get both wines from @wineandnature .

G A M E N I G H T 🇬🇷🎲 — two native grapes I love when they’re at their very best (and too often merely “fine”). Tonight we hit the top shelf.

1️⃣ 2015 Apeiro “∞” — Agiorgitiko (old vines)

First pour ever of this wine from @philoswines (I’ve never touched the entry-level). Nose is flat-out stunning — maybe the most complex bouquet I’ve had from a Greek red this year: black cherry cordial, violets, graphite, sea breeze. On the palate the pieces aren’t quite locked together yet; the mid-palate feels a hair loose, but the salt-rimmed fruit and a minute-long finish still drive it to 95 pts. Hard to believe it’s ten years old. Tip: let it climb through a few temperatures — warmer = more cherry-plum depth, the oak melts in, the age peeks out. (2015 really was a magic vintage for Agiorgitiko; @ktimabibliachora Areti 2015 proved that last week.) One of the best Agiorgitiko wines according to @wineandnature, from whom you can get the wines in Germany. I get the hype. It's indeed the best under-the-radar representative of the variety I've had. Price is perfectly fair, so no “bargain steal”, BUT serious quality.

2️⃣ MagioVotano — Liatiko Natural Sweet (0.5 L)

Old, ungrafted vines on Crete, grapes sun-dried ten days, wild ferment, bottled unfiltered at 15.6 % alc. (Note: almost identical to the dry wine we had!) Think rose petal, dried strawberry, bergamot, salted caramel — floral and vividly refreshing for a red dessert wine. Easily another 95 pts. Call it one of the best under-the-radar Greek sweet wines out there. Can’t wait to revisit this wine in a decade! BRAVO, @ampelourgein! (Also available from @wineandnature; definitely a bargain, a must-have if you love Crete).

#GreekWine #Agiorgitiko #Liatiko #OldVines #NaturalSweet #WineReview #GameNight

How lovely! Finally, some spring weather perfect for enjoying wine and food outside. Two of my absolute favourite wines from the fascinating Limniona grape paired beautifully with homemade pastitsio: the elegant 2022 rosé from @domainezafeirakis and the red Limniona from @oenopswines (2020). It's particularly exciting to see how nicely the Oenops Limniona has developed with a bit more bottle age—such elegance and depth now!

Goodbye, Christos Kokkalis! 🖤

Last week, @ktimadioipsi shared the news with is that Christos Kokkalis had died, the creator of the famous "Trilogia" wine (and the much-missed Mova), the first true icon wine from Greece in Germany (made known through contacts such as @wineterminator and @lobenbergs ). It has always been my goal to do a true vertical tasting of Teilogia vintages, but it's very difficult to get bottles. I only have very few of the 2012 vintage left. If you'd be willing to sell or swap, please send me a message! 🙏

Anyway, hearing the news of Kokkalis's passing away, I took another sip from my treasured 2006 and 2009 bottle with the @coravin system. Here are my impressions:

2012 – An Evolving Blockbuster
The 2012, which I had once considered past its prime (one of the last -?! - vintages before @ktimabibliachora took over), surprised me with a dramatic leap in quality. No further oxidative notes, just mocha, leather ... and now also vibrant acidity that fills the mouth and leads to a long, dark finish. The tannins, initially gripping, soften beautifully toward the end. I am so happy to see how this wine is finally coming together! Completely new layers are emerging. Rated 93+ points, with potential to reach 94 or more.

2009 – Precise Elegance
The 2009 vintage shows granate red with violet highlights but less extract than other years. The tannins are compact and consistent, without the dynamic progression of the 2012. Aromatically, it’s subtle, with rosemary dominating and mocha, leather, and cigar box fading. Its acidity remains strong, though the 2012 now outshines it in balance. Everything is in its place. A wine that is excellent, though within a very specific corridor. Precision. 92 points.

2006 – A Masterpiece
The 2006 Trilogia is extraordinary. The color reveals granate red with brick hues, reflecting its maturity. On the nose, a stunning amount of truffle and hints of eucalyptus. The palate delivers incredibly fine yet gripping tannins, perfectly balanced acidity and sweetness, and an endlessly long finish. This is one of the finest Greek reds I’ve ever tasted. I want more!

Thank you, Christos Kokkalis!

To close out 2024, I chose two extraordinary wines from Crete, two Liatiko + Mandilaria blends by @domaine.economou. (We had excellent wagyu beef from @sary_wagyu_ochsenhausen with the wine.)

2015 Mirabello
The "younger brother," vibrant and energetic. Bright ruby with garnet reflections. Aromas of ripe plums, red cherries, caramel, leather, and hints of cedar and thyme. On the palate, it lands with unique tannins – like the soft, thrilling bounce of a rubber dinghy hitting water. Smoky undertones and fresh acidity balance the juicy fruit, leading to a long, elegant finish. 96 points – incredible value for money.

2004 Antigone
The "older brother," both incredibly refined and commanding. Light garnet with amber highlights. Complex aromas of dried cherries, figs, Mediterranean herbs, leather, and a touch of vanilla. On the palate, it’s a revelation: from the very first millisecond, aromas, acidity, sweetness, and incredibly polished tannins converge in perfect harmony. Powerful, elegant, and unforgettable. 98 points – even better than the last bottle I had. Drink now or hold for another decade.

Yesterday, I expressed some dissatisfaction with the category of supposed hidden gems (only recognized as such by those who sell them) of unclassified Bordeaux wines ... which cost as much as their classified counterparts. But this @chateau_la_voute was indeed quite spectacular, as promised by @lobenbergs and @gerstl_weinselektionen . 20/20 or 98-100 still seems utopian to me. But it's such a beautifully dense, 100% Merlot. Not the most complex wine, not the longest aftertaste. But it is opulent, and silky, and delicious. 95 points.

It can certainly rival @bellevue.saintemilion ... buuuut... it also doesn't cost less. That's the piece about hidden gems that I think we shouldn't forget...

#merlotwine #merlot #SaintEmilion #redwine #redwines #bordeauxwine

I am always interested in Bordeaux wines that are not classified. There are some true gems. At the same time, just because merchants such as @lobenbergs or @gerstl_weinselektionen give such wines extremely high scores (98+/100 and 20/20!!!) doesn’t mean they are well-kept secrets ... So what about the Château l’Etampe 2019 (@vignoblesjade)? It is, indeed, a great wine. Silky. Approachable. Plums and cherry with orange zest. 92+ points.

But I also can’t shake off the following thought: Is it a hidden gem if it is a great wine that is not a GCC but already costs close to 50 €? (And no, I really can't see the comparison to Pomerol here ...)

#Bordeaux #SaintEmilion #GrandCru #HiddenGem #Merlot #WineTasting #WineWildCard #BordeauxWine #FineWine #WineEnthusiast #WineLover #RedWine #ChâteauLEtampe #WineLife #PlumNotes #CherryFlavors #FrenchWine #WineCritic #WineReviews #UnclassifiedWines #TopWines #MerlotLovers #SilkyWine #OrangeZest #TastingNotes #GreatWines #WineScore #HighScoringWines #WineCollector #AffordableLuxury

I chose @podereleripi's Lupi e Sirene Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016 to accompany the goose. Wonderful acidity that cuts through the richness of the meat. (Though this goose had relatively little fat, coming directly from my father-in-law—it’s the kind of quality you simply can't buy.) I love this delightful blend of raspberry fruitiness and a touch of tar-like smokiness. Definitely 95 points. Delicious.

(Still, part of me longs to get back to Greek wines after the holidays... the part that values excellent quality for money.)

Merry Christmas! @vietti_winery 's Barolo Castiglione is always excellent value for money. This 2019 vintage is no exception. Not the best vintage I've had. But still great with my dry-aged steak. Salty, long finish. Tannins still need three to four years to round off. 93+ points. (There is serious Greek competition in this prize range... but it's Christmas, so I'll just enjoy and not critique.)

#redwine #redwinelovers #redwines #barolo #barolowine #barololovers #nebbiolo #nebbiololover #vietti #castiglione #steak #steakdinner #steaklover

For me, one of the absolute best German Chardonnays, the Jaspis Nägeln 2021 from @weingut_ziereisen . On the nose, it is quite reductive. But there is so much tension underlying this impression. Once it hits the palate, it explodes, and all the aromas are immediately present. There is a rustic frame and an elegant core. "Subtle and honest," as the label says. It doesn't have the complex development of aromas of the very best Chardonnay wines from Burgundy. But the length of its aftertaste rivals them all. Give it two more years for the wood to integrate a bit more. 95+ points.

#chardonnay #chardonnay🍷 #chardonnayday #ziereisen #ziereisenwine #jaspis #oberrhein #GermanWine #deutscherwein #weißwein #whitewinelover #whitewines #burgundy #burgundywine #chablis #premiercru #grandcru

Some non-Greek wines for the holiday season. I am not the greatest fan or #Barbera. I know some crazy Xinomavro wines that accomplish the same thing ... such as the one from @ktimakelesidi . But I do like the Barbera d'Asti la Crena from @vietti_winery! Give this 2021 vintage some more years. Currently at 93+ points. Wonderful plum aromas and acidity.

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